FASHIONABLE DISCOMFORT
The clothing that men and women wore in the 30∞- 40∞C heat of the Australian summer of the early 1800's was no different to the clothing worn in England at the same period. Attitudes to dress didn't change much until the early 1900's.1850-1860 was a most important decade in our history. The discovery of gold, and the subsequent rush to the goldfields, brought a large number of .emigrants to Australia, but the women coming from England still followed the fashion from Europe and Paris. The line of the skirt was wide, supported by five or six petticoats. The upper layer (undershirt) was a horsehair fabric on stiffened cotton. Eventually, the skirts became so heavy, they had to be supported by a crinoline cage of steel hoops suspended from the waist by tapes, or sewn into petticoats. Underneath, long pantaloons, edged with lace, were worn, often reaching the ankles for modesty. The bodice was very tight fitting; sleeves varied from tight to bell shaped or pagoda.
1870-1880
The boned corset was still worn every day;_only the lower half of the ladies seemed to change. All the material went to the back of the garment and was called a Bustle. Brightly coloured materials, such as satin, surah, silk, taffeta, brocade, velvet and merino were in great demand. Everyone wore hats. Gloves were worn on Sundays and when one went visiting, even in the heat of summer. The women helping their menfolk in the orchards, and on the farms, still wore the boned corset and voluminous petticoats. An everyday sight, along Fitzsimons Lane, were ladies working in their gardens with, dresses tucked up into their waistband and masses of white petticosts showing.
Children were no different in appearance to their parents. Boys wore serge Norfolk suits with trousers tucked into knee-length woollen socks and girls were dressed in miniature versions of their mother's elaborate dresses.
Infants took the risk of heat stroke, also, as they were enveloped in matinee jackets, pelisses and ms. Men's fashion was slower in changing, the length of their' jackets changing little. In the 1900's, respectability was all important for the gentlemen and colours became more sombre. Dark suits with a waistcoat, watch chain and bowler hat predominated. Lounge suits could be of blue serge or patterned tweed. The height of the collar increased throughout the decade until it was almost a choker.
Frock coats were still fancied for morning wear. Knickerbockers and straw hats were for the more daring. Narrow trousers with "peg tops" were worn by the dashing young man, often with bold turn-ups, which were frowned upon by the older folk. The 1900's also saw the Edwardian era. Fashion, for the ladies, became extravagant and ostentatious. The silhouette became an "s" shape. Bodices were pouched. "The Health Corset" helped attain this unusual shape. Gowns were trimmed with cascades of lace, ribbonë and frills. Hats were massed with tuille, ribbon and ostrich feathers.
This era saw the beginning of mass production and, by 1910-1914 people could buy almost anything they required from the rack. The onset of world War I brought many changes. Women took a new, more free role in society and they began doing jobs that men, needed to fight overseas, used to do. With the scarcity of materials from Europe, shorter dresses were coming into vogue.
The next fifty years brought many changes, (approximately every decade noticed some change); for example, skirts went up in the 20's, down in the 30's, longer in the 40's and 50's and up to the mini in the 60's. The 70's and 80's fashions seemed to settle down, although occasionally there is something new to catch the eye, and people mostly dress to suit their own, individual styles.
Although men's fashions have changed very little over the last 80 years, they are starting to become interesting again. One can only imagine the way people will dress by the end of the twentieth century, but we can he sure that man-made fibres will have taken over from materials such as wool, cotton, silk and linen. Maybe clothes designed by computers and sold to us out of a machine? Every one dressed the same? Who knows?
CLOTHING IN DONCASTER-TEMPLESTOWE
Many women had a treadle sewing madhine for plain household necessities. For better dresses, visits were made to a dressmaker, such as Miss Shermann, or Miss Siemens. Dresses were often made to order at stores in Melbourne, such as Foy and Gibsonís.
Mrs Jane Serpell used to dress in black. A black, fitting bodice trimmed with black beads and a full skirt. For church and visits to town, Jane had a garment called a "Dolman", made of black, watered silk and.wide lace.
The late Enid Menkorst described her mother's dress in the early days of the century: "Mother wore leg of mutton sleeves and high collars, with whalebone to keep them up, and bonnets, and she had a lovely black, lacey, beaded cape that I thought fabulous. I know we didn't have many clothes, and a new dress or hat was a real treat, and what we had, we wore till they wore out, not just out of fashion".
DISPLAY OF CLOTHING
An exhibition of clothing has been set up in the schoolroom. of Schramm's Cottage. It was prepared for the Wurundjeri Festival, but will remain for several months. In the far corner are dress models clothed in Victorian dresses. The wedding dress of Nell Noonan's mother, of 1902, and those of later periods, show a variety of styles. There is a children's corner, arranged by Judith Leaney; also a show-case and a display board of photographs, prepared by Lisa Curtis. Shirley Symons, Paddy Green and Gwen Reilly arranged jackets on stands, also underwear and our collection of neck-to-knee bathing tags on clothes-lines. Our society can be proud of its varied collection of period clothing.
Shirley Symons writing in 1981 05 DTHS Newsletter. Illustrated by Lisa Curtis
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| Studio photograph of Sarah Constable Uebergang (nee Buck), probably in her wedding dress, following her marriage to Carl Heinrich (Harry) Uebergang, 28 January 1897. Sarah was born in Collingwood on 14 February 1876, daughter of William Buck and Mary his wife (nee Barry). Sarah and Harry Uebergang lived in Andersons Creek Road, East Doncaster, on a property Harry had purchased in 1884, and was planting with fruit trees. Sarah died on 22 February 1959, aged 83 years, Harry having predeceased her on 20 June 1925. DP1005 |
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